The landscaper must decide whether deciduous plants (those that drop their leaves) or evergreens should be used in the foundation planting. Your taste and your climate will be the key factors. But remember that a mixture of the two is rarely, if ever, desirable – although an evergreen ground cover can well be used with whichever type of plant you decide on. Indeed, such a ground cover might be even more useful and effective around deciduous material than around evergreens. It will keep the planting from looking sparse and bare after the shrubs go dormant and drop their leaves.

Seasonal Changes

Deciduous plants grow much faster and larger than most evergreens so you need to know more about plant habits generally to use them properly. As to which type offers the greater interest throughout the year, it may surprise you to learn that the deciduous plants lead. In many parts of the country such plants go through four seasonal phases in each of which they take on different characteristics.

As an example, imagine a high-bush blueberry growing near a window from which you can see its branches. In the spring it is decked with attractive creamy-white lily-of-the-valley-like flowers, a beautiful sight to behold. By mid-summer it has picked up its full foliage and also a crop of cool-looking blueberries which attract birds and add life to the garden. In the fall, few plants can surpass the brilliant foliage coloration of this species. And, finally, in the winter, the zig-zag growth of its bare twigs is attractive, especially when sheathed in ice during a sleet storm.

Evergreen Phases

Most evergreens, on the other hand, have but two phases which are not too strikingly different. In the late spring and early summer the new bright green growth contrasts pleasantly with the dark green older growth. After a few months the two blend into one more or less uniform greenand that is the extent of the seasonal change.

Of course, they present a beautiful picture when covered with snow, but if the snow is heavy it may split off branches or bend them over and permanently spoil their looks. Give that aspect of the situation some consideration in your planning if you live in a region subject to ice or snowstorms. Look around and see how evergreens on properties in your locality have fared.

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Orientation is the direction in which a house faces. If you are building or can choose among houses that face in several directions, you should always try for an orientation that takes maximum advantage of sunlight. Anyone who already owns their home can, of course, do nothing about its orientation.

Unfortunately, habit and tradition prevent most people who live in crowded urban and suburban areas from taking advantage of undoubtedly distress his more conventional neighbors. Nevertheless, such a rugged individualist would certainly make the interior of his home more comfortable and would also be able to use the garden area to better advantage. A few modern builders, however, have tried to improve orientation in a number of their large developments.

Rural

In rural areas, however, homes are farther apart and an owner need never think twice about orienting his house so as to take advantage of the surrounding elements.

Whether or not the house is parallel to the highway is hardly noticeable under such conditions, so the point should certainly be discussed with the architect or builder.

Ideal Orientation

Generally speaking, the ideal exposure is for the front of the house to face southeast or south . This permits a wider selection of plants to be used in front of the home where it is important to present a pleasant picture to the public, and it puts the more shaded part of the house toward the rear of the property where terraces, patios, porches, and service areas are usually found. In these locations fewer plants are required, so that heavy shade there, would not seriously interfere with the selection of plants.

Also, it makes it possible to take advantage of the shade cast by the house itself on hot summer afternoons. The need for large trees to supply shade would not be so great, and this would mean better gardening because more sunshine would fall on the ground. In addition, trees could then be planted in places where they would complete a satisfactory landscape picture instead of in places where they would cast the most shade on a porch or patio.

Microclimates

By taking advantage of orientation possibilities you can do much to bring under your control some of the “microclimates” of your property. Microclimates are little areas that exhibit some particular type of weather, such as a cool corner, or a hot side of a house, or a wind-swept spot on your lot. Each of them, although a part of the large air masses that make up the climate of the locality, differs from others only 5 or 10 feet away. By properly orienting the house, and properly locating plant material, you can control to some extent these small bits of climate.

For example, the rear wall of the author’s home faces directly south. The two bedrooms are on that side. No shade is cast upon the roof or the south side of the house during hot summer afternoons, and large trees to make such shade would be undesirable

Nevertheless, the south wall of the house should be kept cool in summer so as to reduce the temperatures inside the house and permit comfortable sleeping. To control somewhat the climate on the rear wall of our house, we propose to construct a pergola along the entire back wall so that it projects for about six feet out from the house, and to plant two wisteria vines or variegated ginger to grow over it. Being deciduous plants, they will shade the walls in the summer and yet in winter allow the sun to come through and help warm that side of the house.

This is a perfect example of overcoming, at least partly, poor orientation by employing climate-control practices in a small way. The house wall will be shaded while the remainder of the backyard will be flooded with sunlight and we will be able to grow almost any kind of plants we desire.

Before you start putting a plant in the ground to create your dream landscape you need to do some studying, you should begin to sharpen your critical eye. When passing a neighbor’s garden, look it over. Criticize it, get critical and decide how you would improve its landscape, you will soon shine new light of the design principles you learn from just looking with a critical eye and asking – how can I improve this.ed. (Do not rush in to tell the neighbor they might resent it. )

This is good exercise for the mind. While you do it, you will become familiar with the good and bad points of garden arrangements as they actually appear. In this way you will build a mental storehouse of gardening ideas on which you can call when designing your own property.

Plot Plan

Once you have pulled some ideas together it is time to begin putting together your plot plan. Now you will have to sit down and begin to draw a plan of your property.

You do not have to be an artist to make an accurate plan. The two essentials are: careful measurement of your plot and of the buildings on it, and an accurate scaling down of these measurements; secondly, exact placement of the dots which represent the centers of the plants precisely where you want them to be. Parenthetically, we, might stress again that you should save money by avoiding overcrowding. This is the easiest mistake for you to make; indeed, it is the most common error of professionals.

Do Not Copy

You have been warned – Do Not slavishly imitate your neighbors’ gardens. The idea is to pull from others – inspiration – take your ideas and improvements to create your own blueprint for what you will do to your garden. As for me, i prefer to have air cleaning plants to be unique. Carbon copies of neighbors ideas and gardens are the last thing you want as the result of your effort.

Our hope is to give you the necessary tools for planning and executing a fine garden. If you follow the approach outlined above, you will be able to think clearly about your property. You will regard it as a personal challenge. The information you have acquired will provide weapons that will help you to meet the challenge and to make an individual, unique setting for your home.

Difficult or temperamental lilies. No doubt it will he helpful to discuss some of the specific vagaries of a few of our more difficult or temperamental

Lilium auratum is actually a very easy lily to grow and flower, but it is a rather difficult one to keep. This is largely be-cause of its liability to mosaic infection. Consequently it must be protected by relative isolation and by regular spraying. In my experience a planting depth of 8 to 12 inches is best, though if the ground is soggy or very heavy more shallow planting may be safer; generally the bulbs tend to find their own level and to pull themselves down further if they need greater depth. This is the one lily, more than any other, that rodents prefer; moles, chipmunks, woodchucks, all will go after them, and if your garden abounds in any of these it will be well to protect the bulbs. With these precautions, it is an easy-to-grow and magnificent lily.

Lilium duchartrei comes from the Tibetan borderland, and its problem is purely one of the right lo-cation. It is a beautiful early-July flowering lily with tall slender stems that bear tiers of recurred white blooms delicately flecked with violet. It seems to like a rather dry situation but at the same time one that is acid and well supplied with humus. In its natural environment it generally grows in full sun, but here it seems to prefer light shade.

Lilium formosanum like auratum, is easy to flower and highly adjustable to a wide variety of garden conditions. However, it is more liable to mosaic infection than almost any other lily and is quite often affected by basal rot. The precautions regarding both these diseases should be followed. Fortunately the bulbs are most inexpensive and so this lily can be handled as a biennial or triennial.

Lilium giganteum comes from the Indian jungles and its problem here is one of environment. It doesn’t like our eastern and midwestern hot dry summers but is quite happy on the Pacific Coast. It needs quite heavy shade, though it likes some sun, and a rich black muck or loam to which humus has been added generously; it also likes water and more water. Strangely enough, it is tolerant of lime, and apparently.it is winter hardy though a mulch is advisable if you can,not rely upon a blanket Of snow. Young bulbs are more easy to establish than mature ones and should be planted with their tips at the surface of the ground.

Lilium japonicum is the loveliest of the pink lilies and one of the most beautiful plants in existence; but it is quite capricious in this country. Bulbs do not travel well and should be examined on arrival. It is highly subject to mosaic and should be more or less isolated and sprayed regularly with nicotine. Basal rot is also a problem, though not a major one. I believe it is more adjustable to environmental variations than is commonly supposed. Its natural home is in light shade along the borders of brooks, and it is advisable to simulate this rather moist location if possible. However, it also seems to do quite well in fairly dry soil and seems to like a location that suits blueberries. It definitely prefers an acid soil.

Lilium belloggi is from our own Pacific Coast and, though moderately difficult, is not nearly so capricious as some others from that region. It flowers around the beginning of July and the delicate pink recurred blooms, with their fine maroon flecking and the yellow stripe down the center of each petal, are unbelievably beautiful. It’s probably quite susceptible to mosaic and it’s well to run no risk on this score. It likes cool moist soil with plenty of humus, preferably woods soil. The ground should he shaded, but the stems should he in full sun. Dwarf azaleas or rhododendrons should be suitable companion plants.

Lilium martagon and Lilium martagon album are European lilies. The type is a soft rosy lilac, while the albino form is one of the most delicately lovely of all lilies. They are highly resistant to mosaic, so this is not a problem; but both are liable to basal rot infection. Disinfect the bulbs before planting and do not plant them where lilies have previously rotted. They seem to prefer a rather heavy loam that is well limed and supplied with humus. Drainage is imperative and manure should be avoided.

Lilium nepalense comes from the Himalayas and is so little known here that it is difficult to give specific requirements. It should be perfectly hardy, even more so than in England where it is widely grown in the open. The main difficulty with it seems to be due to its wandering stem, which often travels underground so far that the mother bulb is exhausted before the stem finally emerges. Gravel placed directly under the bulb and a collar of zinc around it will help. If the bulbs are planted close to the surface and the soil filled in around them as they begin to emerge, this wandering tend-ency can be more or less controlled. This may seem like a good deal of bother, but nepalense is a very rare lily and a real beauty which many gardeners are anxious to grow.

Lilium philadelphicum is our eastern woodland lily and is fairly widespread, but it is not easy in cultivation. It prefers a dry, almost parched, highly acid soil and is better for some shade, though it is commonly seen growing in full and brilliant sun in the cinders of a railway embankment. It is liable to mosaic infection and to be kept should be given relative isolation.

Lilium testaceum is a famous lily and a beauty, and there never have been enough bulbs for all those who want them. Its difficulty is due to its liability to basal rot. New bulbs should be examined closely and should be disinfected before they are planted. Avoid a location where other bulbs have rotted and don’t use manure for at least several years after planting; after that it may be tried if thoroughly rotted, though it’s just as well avoided. It’s advisable to disinfect soil in which testaceum 13 to grow if there’s any question of there being basal rot spores in the ground. With this lily, large bulbs are preferable to small ones.

Lilium wardi are cool outdoor plants that originated from Tibet and is closely related to Lilium duchartrei; although the latter prefers shaded areas as a flowering house plant. It flowers in August and the color is soft rose flecked with purple. It seems to prefer a highly acid soil with an ample supply of humus, but it cannot stand too much moisture. It is liable to mosaic infection and should be given both relative isolation and regular spraying to prevent trouble from the virus.

Lilium washingtonianum is another West Coast lily and has similar requirements to Lilium kellogg’, though it prefers a stiffer loam. Bulbs do not always travel well and it is frequently injured byt mosaic, from which it should be guarded.

For a number of years, Chrysanthemum enthusiast have grown outdoors many of the large-flowered mums. These late-blooming incurves, spiders and other odd types have better texture and longer lasting qualities than garden mums. They grow these largely for show purposes and for a certain thrill of accomplishment that garden mums do not provide.

In the past, it was difficult to obtain cuttings of the large flowered mums or even to know what kinds to attempt. But by attending shows and talking with other chrysanthemum lovers you can soon chose the most appealing varieties, and then experiment over a period of several years to see what results could be obtained with the same mums outdoors under your conditions.

If you grow good mums, you ought to enter a show, partly for the worth-while service you can render the beginner who may be completely at sea about what choices to make. More progress has been made in mums over the years than many other flower. Many old varieties are worthless compared to the new, and should not take valuable space. Of course, not all new ones are good or all old ones undesirable. That is why it is necessary to visit shows and gardens of growers who specialize in mums. There is a mum for every purpose but you sometimes have to hunt for it.

Although we prefer to see a variety at a show before ordering it, we have found that almost any variety that blooms by November 1st in the New York area can be grown successfully outdoors. Varieties that bloom up to November 8 can be attempted if some sort of protective covering is used.

The big mums should have a bed by themselves, for they dont fit very well into any landscaping design like small front yard landscaping if you give them the best care. Best care, for show purposes usually, means limiting each plant to not more than 3 stems, which develop near the base of the plant after the first pinch, and removing all but one flower bud to a stem. This makes the plants grow into such giants, that they make too startling an accent in the garden and small yard landscaping. However, if you I dont do these two things, the mums can well be used in the garden picture with other material. You ought to disbud them at least to some extent, even if you dont want prize blooms, to prevent flowers from crowding each other. The blossoms remaining after disbudding also will be larger and more lasting than those of the common hardy mums.

Besides the large incurves and spiders, a number of good pompons of splendid substance will grow outdoors very successfully and they are more frost-resistant than the incurves. Some grow 5 and 6 feet tall; in fact, it is usually true that the later the bloom, the taller the plant. They may be kept lower by starting the cuttings late, say in late May or early June. This wont affect the blooming time much. The only advantages in making early cuttings are that plants will grow sturdy before hot weather and, in the case of hardy varieties, plants will be bushier because they will have at least one additional pinching.

Roses, Lilies, delphiniums and many other perennials are at the peak of the blossoming performance in the North, and the weather is wonderful. It is easy to be lazy and leisurely enjoy the garden and the out of doors. A provident planter has plenty of time for this; there are few things that demand immediate attention, time and effort. Only the weeds that prosper along with other plants are a problem, and a minor one too, because shallow cultivation will cut them down before they get big and deep rooted.

Cultivating is in order even though weeds may not be a problem because the soil becomes compacted by the frequent, often heavy rains that occur at this time of year. When the soil surface becomes compacted it is undesirable in many ways. Water cannot percolate freely through it and much of it is lost by run-off.

Soil air is excluded or greatly reduced especially when wet; harmful soil micro-organisms (algae, etc.) thrive; the helpful soil bacteria perish. All of these unfavorable conditions and factors can be corrected quickly by shallow cultivation. A small two or three tined hand cultivator is just the right tool for this kind of job. It should not be used when the soil is on the wet side, but rather when it is beginning to show signs of becoming dry at the surface. If the soil is too moist the cultivator will cause it to gum and ball.

The Best Rule:

Dont cultivate the day after a good rain, but a day or two later. Care should be used when working a cultivator close to plants. It is so easy to cut into roots and nick or cut off a stem or shoot.

Watch for Aphids

The weather during June in the north is also favorable to the enemies of plants, the bugs and the blights. Aphids (plant lice) multiply in astronomical numbers in an amazingly short time, so keep a close watch for indications of their presence. Control measures should be started early before they increase to an epidemic stage and cause permanent damage. Usually they start on the undersides of leaves. They also seem to congregate on the growing points of plants, the tips of shoots and buds. Here they do damage in a very short time, causing growth to become twisted, curled and permanently distorted.

One of the newest and most effective insecticides to kill aphids on houseplants is Malathion. In the liquid emulsion concentrate form it seems to be more effective and much less offensive so far as odor is concerned.

In the North, June is not too late for planting that did not get done earlier. June weather is usually favorable for the planting of potted or flat grown annuals. Along with them, geraniums and potted roses can be planted in sunny locations, tuberous begonias and fuchsias in shady places. In many sections of the North, window boxes and outdoor planters are not started until early June.

Many nurseries anticipate the needs of those who are late doing their planting and keep some plants started in containers (pots, flats, peat pots) so that they can make a good showing when planted late.

February is a time of excited anticipation. This month a gradual heralding of early spring begins in the lower parts of the region and steadily advances through the entire area.

Planning

Detailed planning of areas of general development should be completed by the middle of the month. In fact, any plan work not well in hand by now may very easily be crowded out entirely by more pressing programs. Detail planning means the actual decision necessary as to placement, quantities, and space allotments for the various plants to be used this season.

Planting

This is the last call for planting of dormant trees and shrubs. Growth activity will begin by the end of the month and later planting will hamper the ideal development of these plants. Give the plants a chance to reward you with their season’s growth without being stunted by late planting.

Rose planting should begin about the 15th of the month. Great expectations are kindled in a gardener when he receives his order of rose bushes for the season, and one can easily dream of the warm days ahead when the lush foliage, beautiful blooms and perfume will fill the garden.

Steps for Successful Rose Planting

1- Unpack carefully and prune away any broken or damaged stems or roots; prune plants for shape and paint the end of each cane to prevent damage.

2 – Plunge the roots in water, preferably overnight, making sure that all the roots (including the bud union) are completely immersed. The roots soak up a full amount of water and are ready to resume growth activity.

3 – Dig a deep hole sufficiently large enough to accommodate all roots without crowding.

4 – For each rose bush, add one gallon of peat moss mix thoroughly by digging in sides and / or bottom of hole.

5 – Plant bush with roots extending downward and pack soil securely around bush for about two-thirds of the depth.

6 – Fill the hole with water and pull in more topsoil around and upon the bush into a mound up to 12 inches in height. This mound will prevent dehydration of the canes which is caused by frequent high winds in this region and also will protect the new plants from undue cold weather that may occur for the next few weeks.

7 – After growth begins, gradually work the mounds away and carry on regular maintenance.

For general planting activities the above procedure is recommended for all deciduous trees used in dried potpourri as well as for shrubs (those that lose their leaves during the dormant season). Use a general all-purpose fertilizer. Other fertilizers may have to be resorted to, especially if your soil is deficient in any particular nutrient.

Soil Preparation

If this important job has not yet been done, by all means do it now. Get the planting areas for the seasonal color plants ready. Scatter a balanced fertilizer (5-10-5) and spade it in as deep as possible then wet-down. A light mulch of rotted organic material over the shrub beds now will give a good supply of nitrogen for spring growth.

Vines For gardeners who live in THE CENTRAL STATES

WINTERCREEPER – There are two varieties of this broad leaved vine or ground cover worthy of attention. The first is the purple-leaf wintercreeper, Euonymus Fortunei colorata, whose foliage has a purple cast; the second, the big-leaf wintercreeper, Euonymus Fortunei vegetus, noted for its attractive bright green rounded foliage and bitter sweet like fruit in fall. Both are tolerant of most any soil, prefer a north or east exposure and cling to walls or trees by root-like holdfasts reaching up 25 feet or more. As ground covers they grow a foot or so tall. The nice thing about them is that they will grow in shade and can stand root competition from trees. Regrettably they cannot be recommended for the coldest or the warmest parts of the region.

BALTIC IVY – The hardiest variety of English ivy, Hedem Helix baltica, will climb up walls or tree trunks 25 feet or more and also makes an interesting 3 to 5-inch-deep ground cover. It will grow in practically any soil and prefers a north or east exposure. The foliage is medium sized and prominently veined.

BULGARIAN IVY – This ground cover or vine, known as Hederia Helix Bulgaria is as hardy as Baltic ivy and requires the same soil and exposure. Its distinguishing feature is its large leaves that give the plant a rather coarse textural effect. Some training may be required at first to make it climb.

JAPANESE HONEY SUCKLE – This vigorous twining vine needs pruning and clipping to keep it in bounds. It will quickly drape a trellis or fence or form a dense ground cover, being especially good for erosion control on steep banks. Known as Lonicera japonica Halliana, it is evergreen in the southern part of the region while in the north it is considered semi-evergreen, its foliage turning bronze and finally dropping in late winter. It likes sun or part shade and does well on even the poorest. soil. The flowers are very fragrant.

LALAND FIRETHORN – Commonly seen as a shrub, Pyracantha coccinea Lalandi is most decorative when trained on a wall or trellis where its branches up to 8 feet long are splayed out to show off white flowers in June and bright red fruit in fall. It does best in the warmer parts of the region where it is evergreen but is also good in protected locations in the north where it is considered semi-evergreen. For best results give it a well-drained soil in full sun.

CANBY PACHISTIMA – This neat plant growing to one foot high has dark green finely textured foliage. As a ground cover or as a low hedge plant, it is excellent among trees or shrubs. You will find it listed as Pachistima Canbyi. It prefers a moist but well-drained soil and year-round shade. It is not recommended for the drier and colder parts of the region.

JAPANESE PACHYSANDRA – Forming an evergreen carpet 10 inches high, this fine flowering vine plant thrives in all but the driest and coldest sections of the region if given year-round shade. It spreads by underground stolons and prefers a moist well-drained soil. Many people know it by its scientific name, Pachysandra terminalis. Among other flowering vines it is one of the best ground covers available.

COMMON PERIWINKLE – For locations where lawns are impossible to maintain Vinca minor comes to the rescue. It is a rugged plant but cannot, however, be walked upon. It likes a light, well-drained soil in full or part shade and under favorable conditions will grow 10 inches tall. There are several horticultural varieties, one of which has bright blue flowers; one with pure white flowers, and a third with purple flowers.

For the person who loves a do-it-yourself projects like landscaping, having the right tools are important. If you want to save money on the expenses of having a manicured lawn, it is always better to make sure you have all the tools you need to create a breathtaking landscape. Once you understand the basic tools you need for the job, you can make sure you have everything you need to keep your lawn in good shape, make it delightful and make your space unique.

Some of the basic tools you need are; shovels, rakes, trowels, and a hand cultivator. These are just a few of the tools needed when it comes to lawn care and landscaping. Every homeowner should have at least these basic tools. They will allow you to make the most of every type of landscape. You need a shovel to turn the dirt and move sod, dig holes for trees and landscaping. Rakes are necessary to smooth out flower beds and prepare the soil for sod, without having to pack the dirt. Trowels and hand cultivators allow you to do minute work that requires attention to detail. All of these tools are needed to make sure your can care for your landscape and that it is properly functional.

Pruning sheers are tools that are used to make improvements to the appearance of wood type plants and trees. Sheers keep plants from growing unwanted into other areas, and also promote good plant health overall. Pruning sheers help you maintain a neat appearance and if you have topiary, they are valuable to maintaining the shape. You can also use hand pruners, these tools help with the smaller branches and are quite easy to use. There are loppers for getting larger branches that may be to thick for pruners. Pruning saws help you with the tougher branches. Hedge clippers or shears provide you with a way to trim more conscientiously, than when using an electric or gas-powered trimmer. There are several models available and they make hedge maintenance much faster and easier.

Lawnmowers are one of the most common types of landscaping tools on the market today. Lawnmowers keep the grass trimmed neatly and keep the lawn healthy. Weed whackers, which are related to lawnmowers are essential for keeping up edges that cannot be reached with a lawnmower. Some special machinery is available to eliminate thicker brush and is ideal to have on hand, even if you only rent the machines once a year.

Other tools you may want to use are specialty tools which may be needed depending upon the type of landscape you have. If you have water fixtures, it is important that you have the rights pumps and filters available. You also need little skimmers to clean the water of bugs and debris. You may want to install automatic sprinklers to water the lawn and your plants, a garden hose is ideal for other watering needs. You also need a hammer, nails, levels, drills for building a deck or trellis, or any other type of landscaping feature you want to build. You may also want to build containers or raised flower beds as well, the choice is up to you.

A wheelbarrow is another great addition that you will use indefinitely for various landscaping needs. They are useful when hauling dirt or debris, as well as bringing implements from one area to another. You also make it possible to haul a load that you may not be able to otherwise. A wheelbarrow is a much needed item for the avid landscaper.

When you have all the tools you need, then you will see the rewards of all your hard work when you see your beautiful landscape. Having just the basic and most common tools, will save you money and time and can be used over and over again. These tools take up relatively little space to store and keep be kept neatly arranged in a garage or shed. They should be easily accessible and not difficult to find. Keep them in a waterproof area to guard against the elements and rusting. Keep your electrical implements such your lawn mowers, grass cutters, and bose outdoor speakers well oiled and maintained for years of use. Taking care of your tools is a small investment and will allow you to take proper care of your landscape.